Saltoluokta to Sitojaure (Kungsleden)

Today, my phone alarm, which I had set yesterday as a precaution, rang at 6 a.m. – and sure enough, it woke me up. It was the first time I wasn't awake before 6 a.m. We wanted to get an early start, as we had 20 kilometers ahead of us and the plan (and motivation) to have a coffee at the Saltoluokta mountain station by 3 p.m. at the latest. The start was at 7:15 a.m. The other guests at the hut all headed south to Aktsestugan, and the first boat – which departs about 200 meters from the hut – doesn't leave until 9:30 a.m. So, there was no sign of them when we set off. Beyond Sitojaure, the Kungsleden trail climbs moderately on a well-maintained mountain path until it leads us above the vegetation line and, after 3.5 kilometers, reaches the highest point of the day at 800 meters. From there, the trail—the most beautiful of the entire tour so far—continues gently downhill. On the left, the Kungsleden is flanked by Mount Tjirak. After another 6 kilometers, spring streams must be crossed, which then flow not far from the Kungsleden into the Avtsusjjáhká River. This river accompanies the Kungsleden in a valley that it has carved out about 30 meters deep into the landscape over the centuries. After about 11 kilometers, I reached the Autsutjvagge rest hut, where I took a break. Since the trail had been very easy to walk so far, I made faster progress than I expected—so I treated myself to an hour's break. The sun was shining, and there was only a light breeze. Peter deliberately slowed down from the start—he wanted to take it easy, as he said. After the break, an impressive view of the mountain ranges of Muorke National Park opened up—simply fascinating. I could barely look away, so I kept walking and – out of sheer clumsiness – I stumbled and fell flat on my face. Sitting down, I examined everything – lucky: nothing was broken, nothing hurt. Now I continued with more concentration and paid attention to where I was stepping. After 17 kilometers, it became very steep and challenging. The mountain path temporarily turned into a climb until, just before the Saltoluokta mountain station, it turned into a forest path. It was 2 p.m. when I arrived. I booked a room – unfortunately, there was only a 6-bed room with bunk beds left in the oldest building of the mountain station, built in 1912. But at least: When Peter arrived at 3 p.m., I had a well-deserved coffee! After checking into the room, showers and laundry were on the agenda – and since the door to the sauna was right next to the shower, things got really decadent: I went into the sauna. Three Swedes were already sitting there, each with a can of beer in hand. A few ladlefuls of water for the infusion were quickly infused with beer. Dinner was served at 6:00 p.m. in the main building – buffet. We're simply doing well...

Day 03.2 - Land in sight. After the bus and ferry ride I arrived in Saltoluokta. This is a large and well maintained STF facility. I shopped here for the first time. 2x ready meals, crispbread and cheese from the tube. I also treated myself to lunch. A soup, bread, butter, cheese, spreads, cold cuts etc. and fresh salad were a blessing. After that I packed my things and set off again. Weather and the coming way were forgiving. The rain stopped and it was a nice and easy trail after first going up a mountain through a small wooded area. It went quite flat over the ridge for kilometers until I finally, after a section down through a forest area, arrived at a lake with an STF hut. I talked to the guard afterwards, I actually wanted to translate but was a bit too late. Some of the boats crossed only twice a day at very specific times. I lingered a little longer in the lounge and ate my soup, which I finally wanted to get rid of. There I chatted for a while with another German who had taken a room there. I went back about 1km because I had discovered a nice campsite there. Although there was a larger campsite at the camp, I prefer more privacy. There I set up camp until the boat would cross over again the next morning.

Day 5 already. Just under 20 kilometers and starting with a steep climb. In the morning it still rains quite hard, but after 9 o'clock it becomes dry. I don't think I've walked in a bit of rain for 15 minutes. And then the sun suddenly came out. The whole stage. This was perhaps the most beautiful day yet. The ground was also much less rocky. Ever since Teusajaure I've come across a man with a husky. Very nice man from Norway. We walk the same route and often when I take a break he is ahead of me and vice versa. The day was actually just great. Tomorrow around 12 kilometers, but the first 3.5 kilometers are with a motorboat. If all goes well, have a relaxing day.

The path led through a long high valley. I lost my way and walked over an interesting moraine landscape. The boat trip on the Sitojaure went without any problems, but seems adventurous to us. An exact route must be followed through the many shoals.