Singi Fjällstuga to Kaitumjaure Fjällstuga – Kungsleden Trail

A rather easy stage, which runs along the river for the whole day, first in a fairly wide valley. Then the stream slips into a small gorge that it dug itself and we cross it on a spectacular footbridge. The path descends further towards Kautumjaure and the vegetation is ever more present, in particular in the form of a birch forest,

For me, this is where the most beautiful part of the Kungsleden begins. You start from Singi and stay in the valley for a long time. The weather got a little better. The vegetation changes over time and the first dwarf birches appear again. Saw some reindeer. The raging river is soon a constant companion. You can also hear the birds chirping again. One of the most beautifully situated huts is reached at the end of the stage: Kaitumjaure. Located in the delta, amazing view. Here we met the nicest hosts, Monica & Lasse. There were many stories and historical anecdotes. By the way, there are tons of blueberries, crowberries and lingonberries all over the Kungsleden. Perfect for the snack in between or the hit in cans: make your own tea from it 🤗

A few days ago, I briefly asked myself the question: "Why are you doing this shit?" Today, it was answered again! Today's stage alone was so impressive that it made me forget every exertion, every wet shoe, every laborious step of the last few days. This day – it was worth it. Behind the hut in Kaitumjaure, the trail begins inconspicuously – almost harmlessly. But soon, a panorama unfolds that leaves me speechless. The path climbs gently and follows the course of the Tjäktjavagge valley – a long, wide valley that will accompany me for 30 kilometers. Vastness, freedom, and untouched nature. From a small hill, I look back at the turquoise Padje Kaitumjaure. The glacier-fed water glows almost unrealistically under the sun – a moment I will probably never forget. The trail continues – the path now winds along the Tjäktjåjåkkå, a wild, untamed river raging deep in a gorge below. At times wide and calm, at others narrow and turbulent, it winds its way through the valley. To the left and right, the mountains rise, up to 1600 meters high. They stand still and mighty – as if testing every hiker who dares to venture there. Above all, the Stuor-Jieärta, at 1550 meters, towers above everything. The sun repeatedly breaks through the clouds – shadows chase across the landscape, the water sparkles. An interplay of light, wind, rock, and silence – only the sound of the river accompanies me. I stop often, absorbing everything. It's as if Lapland has decided to show off its most beautiful side today. The path remains surprisingly good – almost a pleasure to walk. I'm getting into a real "hiking flow." Lotta had warned us and said as we left, "You will have the most beautiful day." And she hadn't overpromised. After about two hours, a suspension bridge comes into view – it leads to the east side of the valley. The wind whistles, the water rushes, the bridge sways. I slowly walk to the other side. A little later, the Singistugorna hut can be seen in the distance, perched on a plateau. Three more kilometers. At this point, the Dag Hammarskjöld Pilgrimage Trail from Nikkaluokta also meets the Kungsleden Trail. From here, both trails will lead together over the Tjäktja Pass to Abisko. And there will probably be a few more hikers on the trail. The last two kilometers, the trail becomes rockier and more challenging again. But I barely notice it. The surroundings are too overwhelming, too powerful. It's as if I'm hiking through a vast, open natural theater. Arriving in Singi, there's a handwritten note stuck to the door of the Stugvärd hut: "I'm back at 2 pm - Stella." It's 12:30 pm. I make myself comfortable, make myself a coffee, and heat water for the laundry. The sun is shining - an ideal day to let things dry. At 2 pm sharp, Stella shows up - at the same time, Peter arrives. We're assigned "our" spot, given a brief briefing - then we settle in. Shortly after, two more hikers arrive: Gordon - whom we met at "Table Mountain" with his monstrous backpack - and a Swiss woman traveling north to south. They're also staying overnight. At around 5:30 pm, without prior arrangement, we gather in the hut kitchen. Everyone cooks their own small meal - today I'm having spaghetti Bolognese from my trekking bag. During the meal, the number one topic is, of course, "the journey," supplemented by tips and tricks for gear. Around 9 p.m., we slip into our sleeping bags. Outside, the sun is shining and the wind is rushing across the plateau. It was one of those days that stay with you.

Yes yes, I'm just back on the Kungsleden and what a day. Walked from Abisko via Singi to Nikkaluokta last year. See https://www.komoot.nl/collection/1462815/-kungsleden-dag-hammarskjoeldsleden. From Singi to Nikkaluokta is actually a variant called the Dag Hammarskjöldsleden. To continue with the Kungsleden I have to start in Singi. I was dropped there by helicopter at 8:30 this morning. I had never been in a helicopter before, but how cool is that 😀. And then being dropped on the Kungsleden in the middle of nowhere. wow... The next 9 days I will be on my way to Kvikkjokk. A quiet day today. The stage goes from Singi to Kaitumjaure and is 12.3 kilometers. The weather is beautiful. No wind, no rain and about 12 degrees. In the afternoon the sun will even shine. The first kilometers I don't meet anyone at all and it still feels a bit unreal that you're just here again. It's so beautiful and so quiet here. There is little to write about the walk. A simple stage and just super. Tomorrow the shortest stage of the trip, 9 kilometers to Teusojaure and again no rain predicted. What a difference from last year. 🤣

Stage 3. We felt very comfortable in Kaitum with Inga & Lotta. The view of the lake and the mountain scenery was breathtaking. The only downside were the millions of mosquitoes, which somewhat spoiled the pleasant outdoor sitting and enjoying the view. For the next 13km, we couldn't stop marveling. I keep wondering how nature can be so incredibly beautiful. And without cell reception, you experience everything even more intensely. Arriving in Singi, we had some time to relax in the sun, stroll along the mountain stream, the mighty mountains in all their beauty always in view. Later, we enjoyed a leisurely cookout and then happily sank into bed. Since you find the turnoff to Nikkaluokta here in Singi, which many hikers walk from Abisko, you can expect to see far more hikers from here than on the first two stages.

Fresh snow! When I wake up in the morning, the mountains are dusted with powdered sugar again. What is not by chance: It's cold, it's wet, it's uncomfortable! Sometimes the rain lashes mercilessly in my face. But the weather changes just as quickly. It is simply unpredictable and sometimes not that easy to take the constant freak weather conditions indifferently. Still, I manage better than I thought. Here a small, faint rainbow, there a hole in the cloud from which the sun peeks out and again a completely different lighting atmosphere that sets the scene for the landscape After going through a sparse birch forest with numerous willow bushes at the beginning of the stage, the landscape changes when I cross the suspension bridge over Tjäktajåkka. I am now walking through a seemingly endless wide valley that will be with me for the next few days. The path is now flat and easy to hike. The landscape glows in all autumn colors, so that once again I can barely move because I can't stop taking photos. The river meanders picturesquely through the valley between the impressive steep mountain slopes. It's amazing how wide the view opens up here! I am now walking through an old reindeer herding area, where the remains of Sami tents and reindeer pastures can be seen in several places. Unfortunately, today I only see my friends from afar. At the Singi hut I am greeted again with hot cranberry juice. First warm up and then just relax. 🙏