The best traffic-free bike rides around Sainte-Même

The Chaniers ferry (Charente-Maritime) is one of the last traditional river ferries still in operation in France. It allows crossing the Charente River between Chaniers and Courcoury, a few kilometers downstream from Saintes. A crossing used for centuries History of the Chaniers ferry The ferry crossing at Chaniers is very old: it dates back to the Middle Ages. In the mid-17th century, it was already an important crossing point on the Charente. It was not only used to cross the river: it also allowed residents to access the meadows on the other side, particularly for agricultural activities. In the early 20th century, the Chaniers ferry was part of a much larger network of crossings on the Charente. In 1909, thirteen ferries were still recorded in Charente-Inférieure, including the one in Chaniers. Ferries were essential at the time before the proliferation of bridges. Why "chain ferry"? The principle consists of holding the ferry on a chain connecting the two banks. The ferryman uses this chain to move the boat forward and keep it on its course despite the current. In Chaniers, the current ferry is motorized, unlike the ferry in Dompierre-sur-Charente, which is operated manually. The Tourist Office, however, still describes it as a "chain ferry," and the municipality as the traditional crossing method connecting Chaniers to Courcoury. The ferry today The crossing takes place between Le Communal in Chaniers and the Courcoury bank. It is free and can transport pedestrians, cyclists, and motorized vehicles. Its operation depends in particular on the flow of the Charente River. The municipality of Chaniers officially presents "the port of Chaniers and its chain ferry" as an element of its local heritage. Important point: I am correcting my previous message: the Chaniers ferry is not simply a "19th-century ferry." The crossing has been attested since the Middle Ages; it is its mode of operation and its equipment that have evolved over the centuries.

🏛️ Construction: 18-19 AD The arch was built around 18-19 AD, during the reign of Emperor Tiberius. It stood at the entrance to the Roman bridge crossing the Charente, at the outlet of the Via Agrippa, which connected Lyon to Saintes. It is therefore not truly a "triumphal arch": it was both a road monument and a monumental gate marking the entrance to Mediolanum Santonum, the capital of Roman Aquitaine. 👤 Who had it built? The arch was financed by Caius Julius Rufus, a Romanized notable from Saintonge. He dedicated it to Tiberius as well as his nephew Germanicus. The inscriptions engraved on the entablature still allow us today to know the figures to whom it was dedicated. The name "Arch of Germanicus" therefore comes from this dedication, and not from the fact that Germanicus personally had the arch built or crossed it. 🏗️ A rather exceptional monument The arch has two bays, likely allowing for the differentiation of traffic flows. It measures approximately 15 m high by 16 m wide. Its Corinthian and composite capitals bear witness to particularly meticulous Roman architecture. It constituted a true demonstration of the power and Romanization of Saintes. ⚠️ The moment the arch almost disappeared This is probably the most interesting episode in its history. For centuries, the arch was always located at the level of the Roman bridge and then the medieval bridge, on the right bank of the Charente. In the 19th century, the old bridge had become dilapidated. When it was decided to demolish it, around 1843, the arch was also threatened with destruction. It was then that Prosper Mérimée, Inspector General of Historical Monuments, intervened. He advocated for its preservation and arranged for its dismantling, relocation, and reassembly on the new bank. Another figure is also associated with this preservation: Victor Hugo, who stayed in Saintes in September 1843 and intervened in favor of the monument's conservation with Mérimée. 📍 Why is the arch no longer exactly in its ancient location? The arch we see today, on Place Bassompierre, is therefore no longer in its original location. It was moved a few dozen meters during the transformation of the quays and the disappearance of the old bridge. It was dismantled stone by stone and then reassembled in order to preserve it. It is now located in the immediate vicinity of the ancient Roman bridge crossing. 🏛️ Protection The Arch of Germanicus was finally classified as a historical monument in July 1905. An interesting detail The Crazannes quarries, located near Saintes, supplied a limestone widely used in the region's ancient constructions. Crazannes stone was notably used for monuments such as the Arch of Germanicus. In summary: 18-19 → construction of the arch at the entrance to the Roman bridge ↓ Antiquity → Middle Ages → the arch remains associated with the crossing of the Charente ↓ 1843 → demolition of the old bridge and threat to the arch ↓ 1843-1844 → Mérimée's intervention and relocation of the arch ↓ 1905 → classified as a Historical Monument

Beautiful campsite with trees and large pitches

I really enjoyed this ride. I’m 46, I did it on a 40 year old road bike, it’s more suited to a cyclocross bike!

The cafe is now closed

super nice campsite to cycle from.

Note opening times

Cafe is open (for drinks) even in August.