The best city hikes and walks in Viterbo

Viterbo lived its period of major splendor and power in the 13th century when it was chosen as the seat of the papacy instead of Rome, where powerful warring families made life too dangerous. Eight different popes lived in Viterbo making it is similar to Vatican City and Avignon in France. The longest papal conclave in history happened here from 1 December 1268 to 1 September 1271. Following Pope Clement IV's death, infighting between cardinals and political pressure led to a 34-month deadlock. The cardinals were locked up cum clave (hence the word conclave) inside the palace’s large Conclave Hall. In desperation the town’s population, who were feeding them and their entourages, eventually reduced the cardinals’ food and wine supplies, trying to speed up the election. Time wore on and they finally decided to remove the roof of the palace: in order to help the Holy Spirit come down and illuminate them, it was quipped. That worked.

In the second half of the 13th century, Piazza del Gesù was still the civic and social hub of Viterbo. It was the place where justice was administered, people gathered, and the market was also held. The Church of San Silvestro, known as the Church of the Gesù, features the typical Romanesque architecture of Viterbo, with its bell gable. The church is mentioned in documents dating back to 1080. Its current appearance is due to the restoration work of 1915 which aimed to bring the building back to its Romanesque forms. This small church became notorious for the gruesome murder of Henry of Cornwall, cousin of King Edward I of England. It was a bloody act of revenge carried out in 1271 by the Montfort brothers, which sparked outrage throughout Europe. An event portrayed by Dante in the XII Canto of the Inferno, where Guido di Montfort is placed in the circle of those who are violent towards their neighbors.

Herbs Square / Piazza delle Erbe The square, originally dedicated to Saint Stephen, has changed name and appearance over the centuries. It is home to historic fountains, Palazzo Gatti, and the Casa della Pace.

The Rocca Albornoz was built in the 14th century by order of Cardinal Egidio Albornoz, with the aim of reestablishing papal authority over the territories of the Papal States. Conceived as a military fortress, it features a massive tuff structure, with towers and defensive structures dominating the surrounding area. Its strategic location allowed for control of access to the city, particularly along the Porta Fiorentina route. More than a residence, the Rocca was a clear symbol of political and military power. Today, the building is a museum, housing the National Etruscan Museum of Viterbo, which has restored its spaces to a cultural function.

The funerary monument of Pope Adrian V, in the Basilica of San Francesco in Viterbo, houses the remains of the pontiff, who died in 1276 after a very short pontificate. The work, traditionally attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, reflects the Gothic style and Cosmatesque tradition of the era, with an elegant structure and finely decorated columns. The statue of the pope lies in pontifical robes on a richly carved base, lending the tomb a solemn and meditative tone. The monument testifies to the importance of Viterbo as a papal seat and artistic center in the 13th century.

The House of Saint Rose stands in the heart of Viterbo's medieval quarter and bears witness to her family's modest origins. Within these walls, Saint Rose was born in 1233 and spent her childhood and adolescence, immersed in a domestic religiosity that would guide her early vocation. The building, simple and unadorned, reflects the popular architecture of the 13th century and the daily life of the medieval city. Over time, the house has become a place of remembrance and devotion, demonstrating the profound connection the people of Viterbo have with the figure of the saint. In her honor, the Cero di Santa Rosa is carried in procession every year, an event that draws the entire city and renews the centuries-old devotion to the city's patron saint.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Poggio is a small, quiet, and intimate medieval square, nestled slightly elevated in the heart of historic Viterbo. Far from the busiest streets, it retains an intimate and authentic character, deeply rooted in neighborhood life. The church that gives it its name, built in peperino stone, features a simple, austere façade, devoid of superfluous ornamentation, perfectly integrated into the surrounding urban fabric. It is a parish church, designed for a stable community, and it was here that Saint Rose of Viterbo was baptized in 1233, a sign of the profound connection between this place and the city's spiritual history. At the center of the square is a medieval fountain, also made of peperino stone, dating to the first half of the 13th century, created for the daily supply of water. Popular tradition links it to the young Saint Rose, who is said to have drawn water from here, adding a sense of memory and devotion to the place.

In the heart of Viterbo, Piazza delle Erbe owes its name to the vegetable market held there since the Middle Ages, when the square was a vital hub of city life. At its center is the Fountain of the Lions, built between 1621 and 1625, with its basin decorated with lions and marble coats of arms reminiscent of the city's coat of arms.